The Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon is every bit as impressive as I'd been led to believe. I stood on the rim and felt myself shrink beside the chasm and the millennia of patient environmental forces that carved it into the rock. What can I say? The pictures speak for themselves, and yet will never do it justice.

Canyon Sunset, Canyon Sunrise

We arrived at the Grand Canyon too late for serious sightseeing on our first day. Unable to wait, we made a quick trip to the South Rim anyway. This was the view facing north as the shadows lengthened across the big ditch.



We walked west along the South Rim path as the sun dropped below the mountains. The darkness spread in dramatic strokes across the canyon and the plateau above. The temperature dropped quickly, a reminder that we were at an altitude of over 2,225 metres or 7,300 feet.

The following morning, we started early enough to watch the process reverse itself. Patricia and I watched as the light returned to the depths of the canyon, spilling over the rim from the east.

It was going to be an impressive day.

Illegal to Feed or Approach Wildlife

In the Grand Canyon National Forest there are many signs posted informing visitors that "It is illegal to feed or approach wildlife." Despite the images you are about to see, I assert that I did not violate this very proper and sensible rule. I claim innocence on three counts:

1. The squirrel approached me first
2. I didn't give the squirrel the Oreo
3. This squirrel is definitely not wild.



Patricia and I decided to make an early start on our sightseeing at the Grand Canyon. We were really glad we'd made the effort when this little squirrel came right up to us and started posing for photos. He fearlessly mingled with a group of about ten people and actually climbed part of the way up my thigh while I was kneeling to take his photograph.

If we thought he just liked the attention, we were seriously mistaken. Like Hammy, the Squirrel from Over the Hedge, this little fellow knew exactly what he wanted. He likes a cookie.

Personally, I wouldn't have given him an Oreo, or at least not a whole one. I don't know exactly what kind of food is good for squirrels, but I'm pretty confident that chocolate biscuits (cookies) are not on the approved list. Still, he was more than satisfied with his successful foraging and was happy to accept contact with humans as part of the deal.

So, you see, the photograph below should not be interpreted as evidence of a crime. The squirrel started it, and I didn't give him the Oreo.

That night I was still filled with such a warm, fuzzy feeling towards squirrelkind that I googled them and discovered a stern warning on wikipedia. Apparently you shouldn't touch squirrels because they can carry the Plague.

This has the ring of an urban myth to me. Are there really people across this continent dropping dead from the Black Death after patting friendly squirrels? Surely we would have heard about that? I choose to believe that this is just a runaway parental lie. You know the kind: "If you tell lies your nose will grow," or "If the wind changes your face will stay that way," and "Don't touch the squirrel or you'll die in agony."

Just in case, I have closely examined my left index finger and have not yet discovered any evidence of buboes. My body temperature is normal. If there's any change I'll try to make it to the computer and let you know before it's too late.

I celebrated my close encounter of the cute and cuddly kind by purchasing a Grand Canyon squirrel keyring. Now I can carry the memory with me forever, or until the Plague gets me.

Grand Canyon - Hotel

Despite the white water rapids of the Colorado River roaring through the middle, the Grand Canyon is quite plainly located in a desert. In keeping with its environs, the hotel where we stayed last night makes extensive use of reclaimed water, what Australians might call grey water.

This includes a fountain in the lobby which sports a warning about the water quality.

Unfortunately the warning is a little inconsistent with the design of the fountain.

Reclaimed water is also used in some of the bathroom facilities.

At first glace, this seems like a perfectly sensible idea. However, a closer look at the text of the warning under the toilet seat did give some cause for alarm.

Obviously I can't speak for all the readers of this blog, but personally I don't need a printed warning in this situation. Under almost any circumstances I can imagine, I may be relied upon to avoid contact with the water in any toilet, even if they flush it with Evian.

Amusing signage aside, I had a very pleasant stay in this hotel and really shouldn't mock. The high point for me was the dessert I shared with Patricia in the hotel restaurant last night. It was a chocolate mousse, in a moulded white chocolate piano and it was delicious.

As well as tasting good, it was tremendous fun to eat. We started with the piano lid, which we snapped into pieces and dipped into the mousse. Then we hit a snag. The body of the piano turned out to be quite sturdy and it took repeated vigorous stabbing with a fork to break it into several largish pieces that we could messily pick up with our fingers and gnaw on. I think we did rather a good job. We even managed to avoid sending chunks of white chocolate flying across the room at fellow diners. However I suspect that all the giggling may have caused something of a disturbance.

The Chocolate Mousse Piano comes highly recommended. If ever you have the opportunity to eat a musical instrument for dessert then be sure to seize it, but make sure you're not wearing any clothes that you really like.

Road to the Grand Canyon

This adventure is not just about getting to the big tourist destinations and buying souvenir T-shirts. It's also about appreciating the journey and the people who travel with you. This aim was easy to adhere to on the road from Sedona to the Grand Canyon, a drive that would be an attraction in its own right if the two places it connects were not quite so spectacular.



This was the first evidence I saw of actual forest in an Arizona 'National Forest'.

This photo is proof that the path you travel can be as beautiful as wherever it is that you're going. We passed over this bridge and stopped to take its photograph for Patricia, who is a serious bridge afficionado. Then we found a little trail that ran under the bridge and revealed vistas we could easily have driven straight past.

If you have very good eyesight you may be able to see that there are people swimming in this river. I really wanted to join them.

The road up through the mountains climbed hard and involved some serious twists and turns. The red line on the GPS monitor gives some indication. We actually have two GPS systems in the family, known affectionately as Thelma and Louise. This one is Thelma. Louise stayed behind in Fresno to make sure I could find the grocery store for the week I was there alone.

This particular journey also gave us an opportunity to meet some friendly new people. For example, we met one very nice Arizona State Trooper who came right up to the car window to say hello and chat about our vacation. While he was at it he also let Dad off with a warning for speeding. Two thumbs up for Arizona as a vacation destination. Lots of places have great scenery, but pleasant policemen are very rare indeed.

My Kind of Town

I'm starting to think Sedona might be my spiritual home. Not only does it boast unbelievable views from almost any angle in almost any part of town, it also has a sense of humour. Check out the bird below, soaring over one of the peaks behind the town. It's actually a clever kite attached to the rod on the left and mounted on the roof of one of the shops. The wings flap in the breeze and it looks quite convincing until the wind drops and leaves it dangling lifelessly from its string.

Sedona is both self-deprecating and a little philosophical. Check out the decorative tile we found in one of the hundred art and craft stores on the main street.

Sedona also has just enough attitude to keep delinquent youngsters in line.


I admit this sign isn't as quite as good as the one seen in a Sydney Hog's Breath Cafe: "Unattended children will be given a shot of espresso and promised a pony," but it's pretty good nevertheless.

The town also knows that it owes its tourist trade to the striking mountains of red rock that surround it, but it isn't ashamed. Far from it. Sedona uses its famous red dirt to dye its souvenir T-shirts.

Of course, it is perfectly logical that people who celebrate dirt coloured shirts would have a healthy disrespect for high fashion. I really wanted to take this little guy home.

Goodbye Sedona. I love you!

More Scenic Sedona

There is a fine line between an interesting and informative online journal and an excruciating Internet version of the interminable photograph slide show from the family holiday (vacation). At the risk of crossing the line and becoming a blog bore, I do feel the need to share with you just a few more images of scenic Sedona before we can all move on.

Just remember folks, as magnificent as it looks from a distance, up close, this desert landscape always has a sting in its tail.

Sedona, Arizona

In addition to its dangerous wildlife, Opera House and coathanger bridge, my homeland is also known around the world for a very large and spectacular rock in the middle of a desert. As part of my ongoing cultural exchange program I have seized the opportunity to visit Arizona and see some other impressive rocks in the middle of a desert.








The light changes with every moment. We sat on a balcony tonight and watched the sun set while the whole palette of the landscape shifted. All of these views are literally on our doorstep. I offer as evidence the photograph below. Our fully equipped townhouse is circled in red.

Sedona is a remarkable and almost mystical place nestled between the red rocky hills of the incredibly inaccurately named Coconino National Forest. Despite the absence of anything remotely resembling a forest, every moment has the potential for magic. While we drove around looking for our townhouse, we were suddenly bathed in sunlight and surrounded by springtime snow as cottonwood fluff swirled around us.

But, as serene as Sedona has been, there must always be at least one humorous element in any blog entry. For Sedona it is this local sightseeing company Pink Jeep Tours. Check out their website for more photos of the region. Obviously they do good work, but surely the pink jeeps clash terribly with all the red dirt.