Friday 27 July 2007

Dublin, Ireland

Dublin is an amazing city. It's beautiful, interesting, vibrant and so thoroughly soaked in history that the past pools in puddles on the street and you have to splash through them to get anywhere.

My first jetlagged and exhausted stroll was through the oldest parts of the city. Dublin was founded as a Viking settlement and a few traces of those ancient times remain.


A remnant of the old city wall rears up out of nowhere, protecting nothing. In other cities the close placement of apartment buildings and ancient ruins would seem incongruous, but in Ireland the past and the present mingle easily.


Dublin Castle was the first of many castles I visited on this trip. Unlike most of them, this building is still in use.



This was also the only castle I saw that had been partially repainted in primary colours. It makes for a rather startling first impression, but it grew on me. Why shouldn't a castle be allowed to get in on the modern action of the Celtic Tiger? A carnivale paint job is only a frivolous moment in a long and serious life.



It's hard to imagine the office workers who walk across this bridge at the close of business. We chatted briefly with one of them as he unchained his bicycle. He was curious to know how we were enjoying Ireland, and eager to wish us a very pleasant stay. Like all the Irishmen I've ever met, he had warm feelings towards Australia. They've heard that it's sunny there. That seems to be enough for them.


You can't go very far in Ireland without passing a pub or a church, frequently quite close together. This is, no doubt, very convenient for those who prefer to go directly from one religious observance to the other. This is St Patrick's Cathedral. Services have been held in this building for over 800 years. Reaching skywards, it placidly ignores the bustle around it and the the changes that eddy around its foundations. Modern roads, cars, traffic lights and all that goes with a city in 2007 brush up against its sides, part, and slip smoothly by.


Dinner was a noble meal in a fine tradition, much missed during my time in the USA. Fish and proper chips (not fries), with real salt and real vinegar, made me a little nostalgic. Suddenly I missed the taste of home. Despite the rush of blood to my sentimental side, even long deprivation couldn't induce me to eat all the batter.


Having walked around Dublin for about 5 hours in brand new shoes, I was ready to sit back somewhere and enjoy the view. We decided to go up to the viewing deck of the chimney.


It was quite a long walk from where we were in the city, but I was confident that the view would be worth it.


I was right.

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