Rocky Mountains - Shadowcliff

One of the cool things about travelling on a tight budget is that sometimes you end up with an experience far more quirky and rewarding than a regular hotel room could ever be. One such place was Shadowcliff, a charming combination of hostel, hotel and group retreat.

Let’s start with the building itself. Clinging precariously to uneven ground, it rises to what feels like perilous heights. Don’t stay here if you’re not comfortable climbing stairs. There are a couple of flights to negotiate before you even get to reception and the common areas. Then you still have another three levels to summit before you reach the dorm rooms. The building looks, and feels, a little rickety, but I didn’t notice any decline in structural integrity and I’m sure that sheer force of habit will be enough to keep it upright for decades to come. I must admit, however, that there were a few times late at night when I had the strong sensation that the building was swaying.

I had booked a hostel dorm room and enjoyed the overwhelming delight of discovering that I was the only person booked into the female dorm for those two nights. This is first class in the world of hostel accommodation. It’s actually far better than a private room because, not only do you get six beds all to yourself, but you also only pay about $20 per night for a $300 per night experience. Trust me, nothing feels finer.

The common areas were comfortable, spacious and thoroughly lived-in. Although my dorm room was empty, there were plenty of staff and other guests floating around in a friendly way. The staff came from all over the world and seemed genuinely happy to be there, and to be together. During my stay I chatted with two of them who were making a wooden plaque for a staff member who was leaving. They planned to engrave it with the word “Yar!” In the private language of Shadowcliff staff this year, “Yar” means something along the lines of “alert and ready for anything.” I've since discovered that it is a nautical term describing a vessel that is quick and agile.

This simple generosity of spirit extends to the guests as well. The lady who checked me in invited me to visit with her in Florida later in the year. A young man from Germany told me about a website where you can register to meet people who give free accommodation to travellers. Shadowcliff’s Director offered to give me a free pass to enter the Rocky Mountain National Park. I declined the offer because I had purchased an annual pass at the beginning of my journey, but I sincerely appreciated the gesture. The Co-Director chatted warmly with me in the dining room for over an hour, then gave me some truly outstanding advice about where to hike the following day. He told me that the great thing about the Rocky Mountains is that you don’t have to hike huge distances to get great views from mountain peaks. Having gained my assurance that I would survive walking at altitude, he recommended the Ute Trail as a uniquely “Rocky” experience.

In addition to all its other charms, Shadowcliff also offers magnificent views of the river and the lake, with a huge balcony and windows in the common room and dining room to take full advantage. No wonder some of the other guests were so quick to tell me they’d been coming here for years. When I return to visit my mountains again, this is where I’ll stay.